How to Install Self Adhesive Stick on Vinyl Floor Tiles Guide

Self Stick Vinyl Tiles Installation & Maintenance Guide

Section. 1


To determine how many cartons you may need to purchase, make a plan of your room on some graph paper and mark down the measurements of any and all walls, permanent fixtures, and entrances. Using these measurements, determine the amount of square meters you will need to cover and add 1 tile spare for every 2 square meters of floor space.

The number of tiles required to cover small areas are shown below in the following format:

Area in m2 = Tiles Required

- For each tile of approximate size 30.5cm x 30.5cm (12inch x 12inch)

- A carton contains 45 tiles covering approximately 4.2 square meters (m2)

1.0 = 11

2.0 = 23

3.0 = 34

4.2 = 45

- For each tile of approximate size 45.7cm x 45.7cm (17.99inch x 17.99inch)

- A carton contains 16 tiles covering approximately 3.2 square meters (m2)

1.04 = 5

2.08 = 10

3.13 = 15

4.17 = 20

The following information and instructions are a guide only, Scattermats takes no responsibility regarding this guide


- Tape measure, pencil and chalk line, straight edge, sharp utility knife.

- Paper for making patterns.

- Broom and vacuum cleaner.

- Universal water-based sealing agent.

- Vinyl flooring roller or heavy wooden rolling pin.


1) Keep the tiles at 21oC for a period of 48 hours prior to, during and for 48 hours after installation.

2) For best results, remove the tiles from the carton and separate into small piles of 10-15 so as to ensure correct acclimatisation and subsequent proper adhesive.

3) Inspect the tiles from each carton for any dye variations.

4) Your finished floor can only be as smooth as the subfloor so it must be rigid, smooth, level, dry, and free of any dust, holes or cracks.

5) After all preparatory work has been completed, it is essential to sweep and then vacuum the subfloor to ensure all dust and particles have been removed.

6) All surfaces including concrete, cement levelling compounds, hardboard underlay, plywood underlay and fibre cement underlay are to be primed using a dilute solution of a universal water-based sealing agent. (ÔBond-CreteÕ by Bondall or similar works well)

7) Do not install the tiles in rooms with underfloor heating or on asphalt surfaces.

 Section. 2


1) It is essential that ground level concrete floors incorporate a damp-proof membrane.

2) All concrete floors must have been dry for 3 months and be free of moisture, alkalinity, paint, plaster, grease, oil or crayon markings.

3) Holes, cracks and hollows should be filled with non-shrinking levelling compound.

4) Bumps should be levelled with a grinding stone.


1) Fix any loose tiles and replace missing tiles.

2) Sweep and clean the floor to remove any paint, plaster, grease or oil.

3) Fill in the grout lines and level the surface of textured or undulating tiles. Seek advice as to a suitable ceramics tile surface primer and then apply a non-shrinking levelling compound.


1) Re-nail, replace or sand timber floor boards as required.

2) The rigid and level timber floor boards or chip/particle-board should be overlaid with a flooring grade underlay of plywood, hardboard or fibre cement, sheet smooth side up. Seek advice and direction on their installation separately. Alternatively, seek advice on covering timber floor boards with a non-shrinking levelling compound.


1) Existing floors such as PVC vinyl tiles, vinyl composition tiles, non-cushioned sheet vinyl and linoleum are acceptable subfloors, provided the top surfaces of the material is smooth.

2) The existing material must be completely bonded to a rigid and structurally sound subfloor. It is necessary to thoroughly strip and clean the existing subfloor of all wax, polishes, paint, grease or other foreign material prior to installation of tiles.

3) Tiles installed over existing tiled floor must be installed so that seams do not fall over existing seams.

Section. 3


1) Best results are obtained by installing the tile from the centre of the room and progressing out to the perimeter along two marked guide lines at right angles to each, completing a segment of the room at a time (See Figure 1 below).

2) Determine the centre of the room. The first marked guide line determines the major room feature the tiles are to be aligned with, be it parallel to that feature or at a defined angle to it. (e.g. The longest wall, an island bench) From the centre of the room mark a second guide line at right angles to the first. (A right angle can be determined by creating a triangle measuring 3 units base, 4 units length and 5 units diagonal - Figure 1 below)

3) To establish the best-balanced width of tiles to be laid up to each opposing wall, lay a row of tiles along the guide lines starting from the room marked centre and progress outwards. (Do NOT remove the release paper backing at this stage)

4) It is preferable to have cut tiles of more or less the same size all around the perimeter, trying to avoid awkward corners or narrow slivers. If required, reposition and mark a new centre and "best fit" guide lines to use for the installation.

5) Placing a hand cut edge against the factory cut edge will not look realistic or natural. Therefore, when making a cut, you will want to place the hand cut edge along a wall. The cut edge perimeter of the room can be covered later with a skirting board or quarter-round timber trim.

Section. 4


1) The tiles should be installed in a pyramid style fashion as indicated in the illustration.

2) To start, peel off the release paper backing from the tile and carefully position it in the first segments "room centre" corner of the "best fit" guide lines. Ensure that it is correctly positioned along each of the guide lines and then apply firm pressure all over the tile surface to achieve complete contact. 

Note: Tiles should be butted together closely, but not forced together.